A first look at Paul Smith SS14 – With US Menswear Buyer for Paul Smith
Paul Smith has done it
again, delivering another optimistic collection to the fashion world, carrying
the power of cuts through from seasons past and moving ahead with optimism,
colour and nostalgic prints. The collection contemporises flash colours proudly,
paired with a classic Paul Smith English rock feel. The colour on colour
blocking seen in previous seasons has evolved to geometric subtlety, with
small, loud accents contrasted against black and unique hues. Paul creates a
heightened proportion by elongating jackets and coats with leather extensions
to the sleeve.
Although parallels can be
drawn to the previous spring summer collection, which offered a nostalgic, kodachromatic
excellence, Smith’s current master piece adds and extends, with greater lengths
to exude English spring cheerfulness. This cheerfulness ties in a whimsical
mushroom motif, with beautiful miniature pop colours, with each piece taking
you on a trip through the 60’s.
True to inspiration,
Smith also delivered key trends with models sporting the subtle ‘murse’ (man
purse), geometric prints and an almost ‘teddy boy’ feel to the collection. Smith
married sharp tailoring with a move to a more sports aesthetic.
Paul Smith Menswear Buyer
for the USA, Tyler Ruzicka gives exclusive key notes on the collection.
The collection for SS14
was a story of rock and roll, the Rolling Stones, bordering on a psychedelic
throwback, with an emphasis on contemporary sportswear meets vintage tailoring
and new shapes for a modern Paul Smith man.
The themes followed an
emphasis on dusty pastels with pops of damson and turquoise as well as electric
pink, alluding to the psychedelic reference. Mushroom prints and prismatic
colours further aided to the retro feel established.
I personally believe the
contemporary sportswear will carry this collection. Key pieces are the vibrant
mushroom, hand painted shirt as well as the mushroom print sweat top, eluding
to a youthful, playful market. New formal-meets-playful trousers are also a
strong feature. Mixed leather and engineered fabrics are classic in shape but modern
in execution. Appealing to a the fresh, hip client.
A subtle colour pallet
with pops of vibrant hues makes this collection eye catching and exciting.
Texture is key in continuing to carry on this excitement.
Images taken from style.com
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