Paul Smith SS14 Zigzagging Between the 60’s and 70’s.

A first look at Paul Smith SS14 – With US Menswear Buyer for Paul Smith

Paul Smith has done it again, delivering another optimistic collection to the fashion world, carrying the power of cuts through from seasons past and moving ahead with optimism, colour and nostalgic prints. The collection contemporises flash colours proudly, paired with a classic Paul Smith English rock feel. The colour on colour blocking seen in previous seasons has evolved to geometric subtlety, with small, loud accents contrasted against black and unique hues. Paul creates a heightened proportion by elongating jackets and coats with leather extensions to the sleeve.

Although parallels can be drawn to the previous spring summer collection, which offered a nostalgic, kodachromatic excellence, Smith’s current master piece adds and extends, with greater lengths to exude English spring cheerfulness. This cheerfulness ties in a whimsical mushroom motif, with beautiful miniature pop colours, with each piece taking you on a trip through the 60’s.

True to inspiration, Smith also delivered key trends with models sporting the subtle ‘murse’ (man purse), geometric prints and an almost ‘teddy boy’ feel to the collection. Smith married sharp tailoring with a move to a more sports aesthetic.  

Paul Smith Menswear Buyer for the USA, Tyler Ruzicka gives exclusive key notes on the collection. 

The collection for SS14 was a story of rock and roll, the Rolling Stones, bordering on a psychedelic throwback, with an emphasis on contemporary sportswear meets vintage tailoring and new shapes for a modern Paul Smith man.

The themes followed an emphasis on dusty pastels with pops of damson and turquoise as well as electric pink, alluding to the psychedelic reference. Mushroom prints and prismatic colours further aided to the retro feel established.

I personally believe the contemporary sportswear will carry this collection. Key pieces are the vibrant mushroom, hand painted shirt as well as the mushroom print sweat top, eluding to a youthful, playful market. New formal-meets-playful trousers are also a strong feature. Mixed leather and engineered fabrics are classic in shape but modern in execution. Appealing to a the fresh, hip client.

A subtle colour pallet with pops of vibrant hues makes this collection eye catching and exciting. Texture is key in continuing to carry on this excitement. 

Images taken from style.com

Paul Smith Marrying History, Business Savvy Strategy and Design

With Sir Paul Smith growing his business against a struggling economy, his menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2013 reflects an industry champion status.

Menswear is headed for brighter pastures, literally and Paul Smith’s coming collection captures spring in a bottle. With a nostalgic color pallet throwing minds back to the cinematic feats of Grey Gardens and Edward Scissor Hands, kodachromatic color was key. Weaving this with whimsical holidays with the Kennedys in muted pastels, Smith creates an escape from the cold before it has even begun.

While the collection has been praised as wonderful and wonderful as it may be, the overall color pallet is nothing entirely new to the market. We have seen bright pops of color and toned down pastels for many seasons. Fueled by the brand’s signature tailoring, the collection is a market pleaser and will surely sell itself. I personally found the fall/winter collection much more original and inspiring, despite average reviews. The collection was based on the world of The Deep Blue, with pops of neon to reflect bio-luminescence and coats inspired by sailors of the turn of the century. The concept was beautifully executed and evident through all product categories in the collection and in store. Although not to everyone’s liking and an underwhelming market response, it had character.

With spring/summer pre-collection hitting stores already, the response has been overwhelming and a welcomed changed from the bleakness of winter fashion. Consumers are enjoying bright pops and pastels and once again hailing the color block. The decision to compromise clear inspiration for people pleasing pastels isn't extremely apparent to the market, but most definitely seems like a tactical to draw in sales during economic downtime and a strategic linchpin for business expansion measures. The spring/summer season is aligned to the brand’s design DNA, but by no means is it a measure of innovation and market leadership. The collection coming stands to represent market demands instead. Furthermore it represents business tact and success.

In closing, I think Paul Smith is more than just a designer; he’s a strategist and understands the weigh off between design, inspiration and business.